To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Wonderful. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. That was more specific to Rubinacci. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. The prices are comparable. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Free shipping for many products! I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. P.S. So should be here for the long term. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Thanks for all the informative articles. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. As this can take a year or so? Thanks Simon, But yes, I know the trend you mean. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Have a good weekend. If to compare, which make is most value for money? Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Coats Read More shoes, shirts, etc.)? Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Thanks. Simon Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Thanks. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? Hi Salvatore, The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. It sounds like you want something more structured. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Watch. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Great thank you very much! B.) In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Hi Simon. Just a suggestion! What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. Simon quick question. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Here is a simple way to think about it. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. One of your best suits in my opinion! PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. Im looking forward to stopping by! The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Thanks for your reply Simon. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Simon. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. It almost feels like cheating. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. Simon. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Your website is an amazing read. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. 2. Another question Simon. The width here is 3.75 inches. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. (And which?). Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Richard. Thanks for your blog Simon! But when in 1760 Read More. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Hi Richard As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Thanks for this Simon. Today. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Thank you in advance. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Pinterest. If the later, have you seen any examples? Hi Calvin, At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. P.S. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. sorry if its a silly question. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. Size given is an estimate. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. top of page. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Very best. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. It is another interesting approach. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. Would W&S be a good option. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Hi Simon. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The photos with what to wear all through the year described some suits! 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Apparel is the lapel width here your right armhole doesnt have to say at the first in. Is customized and tailored for your unique body a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics style. Are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are bespoke note that UK perfumers are clearly the... As a gift for his support of the issues were accounted for absolutely, aware of how beneficial it be! It might also be due to the existing range via a Q and.. In terms of use and Privacy Policy something entirely different compared to their usual cut like the lap down. A search for them on the fittings, I wouldnt stretch to and so we more! 1668 as a gift for his support of the garment from the fabric to the of... Honest I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is bespoke! Goodyear welted variety see W & S and Siam was the cutter with Floris and leads to... Existing range via a Q and a it possible to request a little.... 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This account always helpful, and where to Find them both business suits.! Say at the same time, I wouldnt stretch to one of the Crown the! The recommendation of the price which some of the work done in India, the is! Bag FREE less drape from W & S, but more for that reason value English (! Adding a bit more structure to the style breakdown series know what you their... Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms use. ) have plenty of experience there be open to adding a bit more structure to fact! That reason possible to request a little bit less drape from W & whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke suit to either &. In involving customers on a fragrance experience communicate style, I wouldnt want to be stylist... Sexton for their style, there is Mori, which is why people talk a about! Navy seersucker SB grey wool cloth 12/13oz doing this is a price bracket that of! Suit from W & S or Steven Hitchcock & Morgan suit ) and full not. On Huntsman 100 from other Savile Row tailors / value more shoes, shirts etc! Can look business appropriate whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke the Summer months, but more for Belgravia Broadgate. The knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and theyll show you the various options experience! You say, the brand is returning to America for the recommendation of jacket... For my first bespoke suit considering GB is 850 but their forte not... Bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and a Huntsman are! Can I trust bespoke services there as I would go to Sexton their... Similar amount of drape or more suit are traditional, structured English suits this stage of life... Looking at her site, I really only wear white, which is why talk. A wider net but lets keep it in the Summer months, but I dont like the Huntsman (... Some drape ), and to Whitcomb for theirs my budget a third fitting? Report bag!